There is a buzzing noise while the vehicle is in motion, but I'm not sure where it's coming from. The mechanic thinks it's too much trouble to check and says it's fine as long as there are no fault codes in the car's computer.

Fault code P0504, currently gears 1, 2, 3 are fine, but when switching to 4th gear, the car loses power when pressing the accelerator and doesn't accelerate. The RPM drops very slowly when pressing the clutch. Has anyone else experienced this?

Has anyone experienced the voice control button on the steering wheel not working, and being unable to make calls after connecting the phone via Bluetooth? The repair shop's computer test shows a microphone fault code. How can I fix this? Thanks, experts!

I have a 2011 Smart W451, and there's a buzzing noise after starting the engine. Here's what's happening: when I start the engine, everything is normal for the first 2 seconds, but after that, a low-frequency buzzing sound begins. The noise seems to come from the rear of the engine, near the inside of the passenger side. There are no fault codes, and everything else like acceleration and speed is smooth with no issues. I recently changed the fuel pump and haven't finished a full tank yet. The noise inside the car seems to be coming from below the passenger seat but slightly forward. I've changed the engine mounts, and the alternator belt looks fine. Has anyone experienced the same issue? Any help would be appreciated.

The check engine light on my Nissan Sunny came on, showing fault code P0705-00, which indicates an issue with the transmission range sensor A. The car suddenly jerked, and then the gear indicator on the dashboard disappeared. After turning off the engine and restarting, the gear indicator reappeared, but after a while, the check engine light came on again. I went to a repair shop to clear the fault code, and it seemed fine while driving, but the issue occurred again after some time. This has happened several times. Could it be a problem with the right tail light base?

There is a buzzing noise while the vehicle is in motion, but I'm not sure where it's coming from. The mechanic thinks it's too much trouble to check and says it's fine as long as there are no fault codes in the car's computer.

Today I was driving my MG One and stopped at a red light. I put the car in park, and when the light turned green, I shifted to drive. Suddenly, the car system reported that the battery was dead and there was an engine fault code. The car wouldn't move even when I pressed the gas. After turning off the engine and restarting the car, it was able to move again, and the fault code disappeared. I went to a friend's repair shop to check, but they didn't find any issues. Since I was at the traffic light and the car behind kept honking, I didn't have time to take a picture. I'm a bit regretful about that. When I go to the 4S shop, I'm not sure how to explain it.

I have a 2018 Haval H2 manual with a red badge. The ABS light is on, the central console reports an auto hold fault, a hill descent fault, and the steering wheel feels heavy as if it's lost power assist. Previously, a repair shop read the fault codes and showed a right rear wheel ABS fault. I replaced both rear wheel ABS sensors, but the issue persists, and now there's a new problem. Before, I could turn off the engine by pressing the start button once. Now, it doesn't turn off with one press; I have to press the brake and long-press the start button to force it to shut down. Does anyone know what's going on? I'm really fed up with this car. After this experience, I don't want to buy a GWM car again.

What could be causing this issue with the 2011 Volvo C30? When shifting to 2nd gear, the engine makes a buzzing noise. There are no fault codes, but there is a throttle body fault code for the engine.

I'm seeking advice from experienced Scirocco owners. I have a 2012 2.0T Scirocco, and every time I accelerate a bit harder and the RPM goes higher, the EPC warning light comes on. I went to a mechanic before, and they just cleared the code, saying it was nothing serious. But recently, it’s happening more frequently. Can any experienced drivers explain what's going on? Thanks!

Today gave me a scare! The light was green and suddenly a fault code appeared, and the car wouldn't move! Not sure what happened. I didn't have time to take a photo.