After removing the aging rubber ring around the air filter of the 2.0 engine, the engine starts to roar and sound hollow above 1500 RPM. Could this be due to a gap causing the issue?

Comparing the 2004 Bluebird Sylphy 2.0 and the 2007 Passat 1.8T: 1. **Engine Performance**: - The Bluebird Sylphy 2.0 typically features a 2.0-liter engine, which might offer decent power and reliability for daily driving. - The Passat 1.8T comes with a turbocharged 1.8-liter engine, generally providing more horsepower and torque, which can result in better acceleration and performance. 2. **Fuel Economy**: - The Bluebird Sylphy might have slightly better fuel economy due to its naturally aspirated engine. - The Passat, with its turbocharged engine, could consume more fuel but may offer better performance. 3. **Driving Experience**: - The Bluebird Sylphy is often appreciated for its smooth and comfortable ride, suitable for everyday commuting. - The Passat, on the other hand, might provide a more engaging driving experience, especially with its turbocharged engine. 4. **Interior and Features**: - Both cars might offer similar interior comfort, but the Passat could have more advanced features, given it is a higher-end model. 5. **Reliability and Maintenance**: - The Bluebird Sylphy is generally known for its reliability and lower maintenance costs. - The Passat could require more frequent maintenance due to its turbocharged engine, but it is also known for its solid build quality. Overall, the choice depends on what you're prioritizing: fuel economy and reliability with the Bluebird Sylphy, or performance and features with the Passat.

I own a 2014 SsangYong Korando, 2WD high trim, 2.0 gasoline. Recently, the check engine light occasionally turns on with the error code indicating a misfire in cylinder 1. Sometimes it turns off by itself. I've swapped spark plugs between cylinder 1 and 2, ignition coils between cylinder 1 and 3, and even swapped the injectors. I planned to use elimination to check if it's the injector issue, but after each swap, the misfire code for cylinder 1 still comes back eventually! The engine idles with slight vibrations, but I don't feel any power loss on the highway—it easily goes over 160 km/h. Later, I measured the cylinder pressure: cylinder 1 is at 8 kg, while the others are over 10 kg. After researching online, I suspect it's an exhaust valve issue. Now I'm really torn. Should I just let it be, or go for a major repair? I read online that some people can fix it by opening the cylinder head without removing the engine. But the local big auto shop is no more, and the private mechanic suggests removing the engine, which I really don't want to do—worried it won't fit back as perfectly as the original. It's stressful because I bought this as a first car for my father, who has loved cars all his life, and now this happens. I've been to various places without a clear diagnosis. Some say it's slight cylinder wear, some say valve leakage, and others mention cylinder head design flaws. Any advice from fellow Korando owners on how to solve similar issues would be greatly appreciated!

Choosing your first performance car is an exciting decision! Here's a brief rundown of your options: 1. **2003 Subaru Impreza STI**: Known for its rally heritage, it's great for all-weather performance and has a strong AWD system. However, it might be older in terms of technology and features. 2. **2013 Toyota 86**: Offers a balanced rear-wheel-drive experience, known for its handling and driving fun. It's a bit less powerful but very engaging to drive. 3. **2014 Ford Fiesta ST**: A fun, nimble, and affordable hot hatch. It's smaller and great for city driving, with a lively turbocharged engine. 4. **2014 Volkswagen Golf GTI**: A well-rounded hatchback that combines performance with practicality. It's comfortable for daily driving and has a strong community and aftermarket support. 5. **2004 Mitsubishi EVO 8**: Another rally-inspired choice, with strong performance and an AWD system similar to the STI. It may require more maintenance due to its age. Your choice should depend on what you value most—whether it's all-wheel-drive performance, rear-wheel-drive dynamics, or a mix of practicality and fun. Also, consider maintenance costs, reliability, and availability of parts for these older models.

When driving the 2017 1.5T Smart model at 55 mph, the engine makes a roaring noise, but it disappears after accelerating past 60 mph. I've cleaned the throttle body, removed carbon buildup, and changed the engine mounts, but the issue persists. I've heard that reprogramming might help, but it carries some risks. Has anyone encountered this problem?

Chery Arrizo 3, sometimes there's a noise above the glove box. When driving, it usually stops, but after turning off the engine, closing the car door might cause the noise again. There's also a similar sound inside the passenger side B-pillar seatbelt. I want to take apart the dashboard to see if something is loose inside, but I'm not sure where to start. I've previously removed the bumper to install a loudspeaker and added a central control screen with a rearview camera. But I'm not sure how to start with the area above the glove box.

Help Needed: 2011 Nissan Sunny Low-End to High-End Instrument Panel Upgrade Issue At first: As shown in the picture, I bought a 2012 luxury version of the Sunny instrument panel. I removed the wires from the low-end panel and connected them according to the high-end socket order. Because I enlarged the wire holes when removing them, it led to poor contact. Initially, everything was normal except the fuel gauge didn't display. Could it be due to poor contact? Then, I reconnected the original low-end instrument panel, which led to the time, trip mileage, and fuel consumption resetting every time I started the car. Finally, I got another high-end socket. This time, I arranged the wire order for the high-end socket first, then connected wires from the low-end socket to the high-end socket (this method avoids enlarging the socket and causing poor contact). Now I'm stuck with the following issues: 1. The engine light is on. 2. The turn signal, headlight, and fog light indicators on the instrument panel don't light up, and there's no ticking sound when using the turn signal. 3. Each time I start the car, the time, average fuel consumption, and trip mileage reset. 4. After turning off the car, the tachometer stays at 1, then drops to 0 and returns to 1 when the car is started again, which seems normal. Everything else seems normal. Could fellow forum members help analyze what the problem might be? I'm almost crying.

French car enthusiasts, I need your help. My 2.0 engine is making a strange noise. When I accelerate gently, there's no issue, but when I accelerate sharply, there's a "da-da-da" noise at around 2000 RPM. After a few seconds, when the speed picks up, it goes away. There's no noise above 3000 RPM, only during sharp acceleration. I bought it second-hand and didn't notice this sound before. If it's not a big deal, I'll just keep driving it for now. [Yeah][Cute][Cover face]

My Zhilong 2022 model 2.0 has reached 20,000 kilometers. When the engine is cold-started, there's a "dang dang dang" sound at 1500 RPM, but it's gone at 800 RPM. Is it the same for you guys?

I have a 2024 model with a 2.0 engine, and after modifying to a quad exhaust, there's a resonance between 2000-2400 RPM. It's more noticeable at high speeds, and the sound seems to come from the right rear exhaust in the cabin. Has anyone experienced something similar? The issue persists even after removing and reinstalling the exhaust tips, so it's not due to loose fittings.