The repair shop suggested replacing the upper control arm bushing due to aging, but I found online that it might not be necessary. Any fellow car enthusiasts with experience who can help analyze this? The car has 84,000 kilometers on it currently.

I own a 2014 SsangYong Korando, 2WD high trim, 2.0 gasoline. Recently, the check engine light occasionally turns on with the error code indicating a misfire in cylinder 1. Sometimes it turns off by itself. I've swapped spark plugs between cylinder 1 and 2, ignition coils between cylinder 1 and 3, and even swapped the injectors. I planned to use elimination to check if it's the injector issue, but after each swap, the misfire code for cylinder 1 still comes back eventually! The engine idles with slight vibrations, but I don't feel any power loss on the highway—it easily goes over 160 km/h. Later, I measured the cylinder pressure: cylinder 1 is at 8 kg, while the others are over 10 kg. After researching online, I suspect it's an exhaust valve issue. Now I'm really torn. Should I just let it be, or go for a major repair? I read online that some people can fix it by opening the cylinder head without removing the engine. But the local big auto shop is no more, and the private mechanic suggests removing the engine, which I really don't want to do—worried it won't fit back as perfectly as the original. It's stressful because I bought this as a first car for my father, who has loved cars all his life, and now this happens. I've been to various places without a clear diagnosis. Some say it's slight cylinder wear, some say valve leakage, and others mention cylinder head design flaws. Any advice from fellow Korando owners on how to solve similar issues would be greatly appreciated!

Help needed, the suspension of my V40 makes squeaky noises when getting in and out or going over speed bumps. I called for advice and they said it might be due to aging bushings. Has anyone else encountered this issue?

In six months, I've driven 7,000 kilometers and have been using fast charging outside all the time. The mileage and display match up normally. Recently, I noticed the power drop is significant—three times the usual rate. The 4S shop checked and found no issues, suggesting that it might be due to fast charging causing a false charge. They recommended using the original slow charger. Initially, using the original slow charger seemed fine, but recently, the power drop is double what the display indicates. After charging, sometimes it's good, sometimes it's not. What could be the problem?

I bought a second-hand Kia Sportage that's 10 years old. When going over bumps or speed bumps, the front chassis makes a creaking noise. I asked a repair shop, and they said it's likely the stabilizer bar bushings have aged. Replacing the two front stabilizer bar bushings would cost over 200, but they also mentioned that changing them might not necessarily solve the problem. Do you think it's necessary to replace them?

When reversing and turning the steering wheel, there's a clunking sound coming from the right front wheel. Sometimes it also sounds like the tire is crushing gravel. What could be the issue? There's no noise during normal driving, only when reversing or turning the wheel to a certain angle. Is it due to worn-out control arm bushings or is it an issue with the steering rack?

My car was registered in 2018 and has just over 10,000 kilometers. It's been in the repair shop for half a month now. They said it's the electronic rocker arm that's broken. First, they tried replacing the spark plugs, but that didn't work. The ignition coil didn't work, and neither did the injectors. Then they said it's the electronic rocker arm. Wow, it costs 12,000. Sigh, they suggested I replace the engine, which is around 15,000. I don't even know what to do. This car isn't worth 50,000 now, and fixing it costs over 10,000.

Hello everyone! A while ago, I posted about the jerking and hesitation during low-speed starts. Recently, I found some information online suggesting that the 6-speed wet dual-clutch transmission, model DCT360, from SAIC had design flaws. Is this the transmission model used in the MG HS 2.0T? If it is, does the issue of the car not moving with light acceleration and jerking with heavy acceleration count as a common problem due to design flaws? If not, is there any way to resolve it?

The repair shop suggested replacing the upper control arm bushing due to aging, but I found online that it might not be necessary. Any fellow car enthusiasts with experience who can help analyze this? The car has 84,000 kilometers on it currently.